Palenque
(DAY032 : Agua Azul - Palenque : 40 miles)
(DAY033-34 : Palenque)
Palenque is a short ride from Agua Azul, so there was no need to hurry even if I wanted to visit Misol-Ha on the way. Or so I thought. Shortly after heading out, I was pulling out of the road with a flat. I was really lucky that it happened close to a dirt road exit, because roads around here are not only narrow but also devoid of any shoulder, so stopping can be a recipe for becoming road-kill. (The risks I have taken to capture some of the images on this site!)
As soon as I pulled out, I became an object of interest to locals. By the time I could get the luggage off, jack her up, and remove the rear wheel, I had about 10 Tzeltal speaking spectators. As another example of what I was trying to explain earlier, their presence was making me uneasy rather than comfortable.
The good news is, I have a spare inner tube and don't need to worry about patching the darn thing. The bad news is I don't have a bead breaker, and the bead is not breaking no matter what I try.
After over an hour of frustration and almost desparation, I eventually did manage to access the inner tube, which came out tangled up like a pretzel. The tyre did not have any visible damage, and the tube was cut, not punctured. I'm afraid the tube was haphazardly stuffed in there, and destroyed itself. If you want something done right...
When I replaced the tube and fired up the compressor, it was already getting dark. "Just in time", I was thinking when I realized that the bead was now refusing to get seated properly. So I deflated it, powdered it some more, walked on it, bounced on it, and inflated again. No use.
It's now dark, and I am beat. But I repeat:
Deflate it.
Walk on it.
Jump on it.
Lever it.
Massage it.
Inflate it.
Nope. Whatever. I'll try one more time, then put it on as it is and hope that it'll seat under bike's weight.
So I repeat, and... Snap! Bingo!
Followed by... Crap! The center of the wheel goes off the cloth and touches the ground. So? The wheel bearing is now covered in dirt and tiny stones. I want to cry. Instead I pick up a tiny screwdriver and try to remove the junk one by one, under the light of my head lamp.
I bet you that that bearing will get me sometime soon, at the worst possible time and place. For now, I'm just glad that I didn't pinch the new tube, because I don't have another spare.
When Katirga's back on her feet and I'm filthier than I've ever been, it's been 3.5 hours. That's three-and-a-half hours of free, uninterrupted entertainment for my audience. I'm really glad to leave them behind, even after several friendly exchanges.
Now, I have to ride an hour of curves in the dark, in Zapatista territory. This certainly is the lowest point of this trip. I hope it remains that way, but I know it takes very little for everything to go downhill from here.
After the worst ride of the trip, I entered the ugly town of Palenque. I looked around for a hotel that could provide shelter to Katirga as well, then checked into Best Western. Talked them down to $45 from $63, and made sure I used the pool. Later that night, there was torta al pastor followed by drinks with a young couple from Holland.
I had a good rest, and had the old tube fixed after breakfast. Then, it was time to move to the cabanas at El Panchan.
Right before the main entrance to Palenque ruins, there's a dirt road to the left. Follow it and you'll find appealing accommodation options in a real jungle setting. You can sleep in a hammock, pitch a tent, rent a cabana, or even stay in a very nice room with 24hr. hot water. I wish I could reach the couple from last night to tell them their worries about bugs and snakes are baseless. My room at Margarita & Ed's cost $20, and was a pleasure to stay at.
The entrance to Margarita & Ed's
Don Mucho's, the central restaurant at El Panchan, not only has a large menu but also live music and fire shows that draw a large crowd every night.
Food & drinks at Don Mucho's...
followed by live music & shows.
Some of the sounds in the jungle are simply incredible. Particularly the cries of a resident monkey, which you could mistake for a "monster sound effect" for Lost, the series. When you see the little gal you just can't believe that sound could belong to her.
I arrived, quickly unloaded, and headed to the ruins.
Also see : Palenque vs. Tikal vs. Copan
(DAY033-34 : Palenque)
Palenque is a short ride from Agua Azul, so there was no need to hurry even if I wanted to visit Misol-Ha on the way. Or so I thought. Shortly after heading out, I was pulling out of the road with a flat. I was really lucky that it happened close to a dirt road exit, because roads around here are not only narrow but also devoid of any shoulder, so stopping can be a recipe for becoming road-kill. (The risks I have taken to capture some of the images on this site!)
As soon as I pulled out, I became an object of interest to locals. By the time I could get the luggage off, jack her up, and remove the rear wheel, I had about 10 Tzeltal speaking spectators. As another example of what I was trying to explain earlier, their presence was making me uneasy rather than comfortable.
The good news is, I have a spare inner tube and don't need to worry about patching the darn thing. The bad news is I don't have a bead breaker, and the bead is not breaking no matter what I try.
After over an hour of frustration and almost desparation, I eventually did manage to access the inner tube, which came out tangled up like a pretzel. The tyre did not have any visible damage, and the tube was cut, not punctured. I'm afraid the tube was haphazardly stuffed in there, and destroyed itself. If you want something done right...
When I replaced the tube and fired up the compressor, it was already getting dark. "Just in time", I was thinking when I realized that the bead was now refusing to get seated properly. So I deflated it, powdered it some more, walked on it, bounced on it, and inflated again. No use.
It's now dark, and I am beat. But I repeat:
Deflate it.
Walk on it.
Jump on it.
Lever it.
Massage it.
Inflate it.
Nope. Whatever. I'll try one more time, then put it on as it is and hope that it'll seat under bike's weight.
So I repeat, and... Snap! Bingo!
Followed by... Crap! The center of the wheel goes off the cloth and touches the ground. So? The wheel bearing is now covered in dirt and tiny stones. I want to cry. Instead I pick up a tiny screwdriver and try to remove the junk one by one, under the light of my head lamp.
I bet you that that bearing will get me sometime soon, at the worst possible time and place. For now, I'm just glad that I didn't pinch the new tube, because I don't have another spare.
When Katirga's back on her feet and I'm filthier than I've ever been, it's been 3.5 hours. That's three-and-a-half hours of free, uninterrupted entertainment for my audience. I'm really glad to leave them behind, even after several friendly exchanges.
Now, I have to ride an hour of curves in the dark, in Zapatista territory. This certainly is the lowest point of this trip. I hope it remains that way, but I know it takes very little for everything to go downhill from here.
After the worst ride of the trip, I entered the ugly town of Palenque. I looked around for a hotel that could provide shelter to Katirga as well, then checked into Best Western. Talked them down to $45 from $63, and made sure I used the pool. Later that night, there was torta al pastor followed by drinks with a young couple from Holland.
I had a good rest, and had the old tube fixed after breakfast. Then, it was time to move to the cabanas at El Panchan.
Right before the main entrance to Palenque ruins, there's a dirt road to the left. Follow it and you'll find appealing accommodation options in a real jungle setting. You can sleep in a hammock, pitch a tent, rent a cabana, or even stay in a very nice room with 24hr. hot water. I wish I could reach the couple from last night to tell them their worries about bugs and snakes are baseless. My room at Margarita & Ed's cost $20, and was a pleasure to stay at.
The entrance to Margarita & Ed's
Don Mucho's, the central restaurant at El Panchan, not only has a large menu but also live music and fire shows that draw a large crowd every night.
Food & drinks at Don Mucho's...
followed by live music & shows.
Some of the sounds in the jungle are simply incredible. Particularly the cries of a resident monkey, which you could mistake for a "monster sound effect" for Lost, the series. When you see the little gal you just can't believe that sound could belong to her.
I arrived, quickly unloaded, and headed to the ruins.
Also see : Palenque vs. Tikal vs. Copan
posted by Serdar at
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