Tuxtla Gutierrez
When I was looking for a tyre in Puerto Escondido, I got a serious warning at the Yamaha service. The winds you encountered, they said, are nothing compared to what you'll face if you head to Tuxtla, pointing to photos of 18 wheelers on their sides. "Go to Oaxaca instead, you can find a tyre there." Trouble is, I have to go through Tuxtla to reach San Cristobal LC.
The demon showed up on the way to Salina Cruz. It got honestly scary again, but thankfully not as bad as the one we tackled on the way to Puerto Escondido. At least it had a stable direction. When I asked for advice at a gas station near Sto. Domingo Tehuantepec, they said I should continue because this was nothing compared to what it usually is in December & January. It wasn't until I reached Juchitan that things were back in control, whatever that means. I hope Peter's gotten through without problems as well, I have no idea where he is now.

At the Chiapas border.
Right after the Chiapas border, it was all spectacular once again. The curves reappeared, the surface was fine (for a while), and the light golden. When I entered Tuxtla Gutierrez it was 6 pm. I headed towards the center checking for a place to stay, then pulled into an Applebee's thinking I missed filling it up the American way. The food was, as expected, delicious, heavy, and excessive. The dessert was simply fatal. When all was done with, I felt fat, guilty, and stupid, all at once. Maybe I hadn't missed it at all then?
When I stopped to eat, I pretty much knew where I was staying. The hotels and motels were quoting between $40 to $70 a night for average to below average rooms. I had a feeling the first motel I saw would be a much better deal, but I needed to wait until the time was right for check-in, because there, rooms are rented on a 12 hr. basis.
Auto-motel La Isla has a dot-matrix sign at its entrance, telling you which room you should proceed to. There, your hostess(?) meets you to complete your check-in discreetly. Of course, I wanted to see the room first, as I couldn't assume this one to be as good as the one in La Paz. It wasn't. It was many times more stylish! And it was for $27 per 12 hrs.

Auto-Motel La isla. You think I couldn't have captured the screen properly?

Katirga just loves these motels.
(DAY025 - morning)
After coffee, I spent a short while locating a place that carries a suitable tyre. The Yamaha dealership only had Pirellis and referred me to Motos-Kawasaki. There, when I asked for a Kenda, Degoberto commented in a way that requires no Spanish to understand. He pretended to spit on his palm, then slapped and slid his hands against each other, meaning a Kenda will slip on a spit! It's probably true too. If a tyre lasts long, that's because it's made of a harder rubber compound, and a harder compound equates to less grip. Still, they checked availability and pricing for me. Eventually, I got the German Metzelers for about $110. They cost only $32 more than Kendas, and were readily available.

Katirga getting shiny new shoes.

The team at Motos-Kawasaki.
[ 11a. Poniente Norte No. 629, Tuxtla Gutierrez, Chiapas. - Tel: (961) 61 116 15 ]

I don't care what anyone says. Next time I want to be on a Yamaha.
Already working on the wheel, I said (gestured) that maybe we should adjust the chain as well. I knew it did not require it as I check it occasionally, but after 4000 miles it could use some tightening right? Wrong. It was tight as day one. The guys wouldn't believe I haven't touched that chain since I bought the bike. No lubricating, no adjustment, nada. A little magic called Scottoiler. Why did I not try this before?









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