Chugchilan

(DAY230 : Latacunga - Chugchilan : 60 miles)


Pujili high street.

After a few wrong turns and road side chats, I found the road heading to Pujili which continues in paved fashion all the way to the highlight of the trip: The Quilotoa crater lake. It was a 45 mile ride, mostly amidst lively greens of the paramo sparsely dotted by the bright pink and red clothing of the indigenous women, and occasionally interrupted by a zoo in leisurely transit. As we climbed above 3000 meters, the temperature dropped to 8°C, but the old man and his grand(grand?)son didn't seem to feel it while herding their animalitos. Their horses, cows, sheep, goats, pigs, llamas, and dogs kept moving down the steep hill while they took a moment for a friendly chat with a stranger in strange clothing on a motorcycle. I wondered whether it might be considered strange that they had never seen the lake only 20 miles away. Some find contentment in a life lived on one hill, while others have to seek it a lifetime around the world.

La laguna Quilotoa is as magical as advertised. But the sky was like a fine print, dull and gray, almost ruining everything.

The road continued to the tiny village of Chugchilan after shedding its smooth crust. I guess it would be called a dirt road even though it often had more sand than dirt. Before I could cover a third of the 10 miles to Chughilan, I got buried in fog. The remaining miles weren't fun. Especially when the road pulled a disappearing act. Oh, and also that time when I found myself flat-tracking with a 290kg KLR. I actually was in the process of falling, but I'm sure it looked very cool, going sideways and all. Too bad there was no one to see it. Especially because I somehow didn't complete the process and remained upright.


It was beautiful. Just not very visible.

Hostal Cloud Forest resembles a misplaced ski lodge. It has very basic rooms for $12, and those may actually be considered the lap of luxury up at Chugchilan.

The night at the lodge was different and fun. We were gathered in the communal room with the antiquated heater, taking refuge from the cold. Later, but not long after the first round of beers, we were gathered outside taking refuge from the over achieving heater! With red ears, we even got to watch a dance show by the local children.


Night at the lodge.

The plan for the next day was to continue to Saquisili and see its Thursday market in action. This would also complete a loop to Latacunga. But in the morning I was told that by the time I made it to Saquisili, the market would be over. So much for good planning.

It was a beautiful morning with clear skies. I rode towards Saquisili for about 15 miles with gorgeous views, but all the while thinking this would be the time to see Quilotoa.






When I came across a deep mud pit, I got my excuse to turn around and go back to Quilotoa. I rode it like I stole it, and averaged 25 mph!


Now that I could see, I could see why I had lost the road yesterday: It merges with a river bed!

I was at the crater again in about an hour, but the clouds had already rolled in. Still, it was much better than yesterday.


Quilotoa crater lake (& hinnies to take you down there)



The local folk are wonderful.


Zumbahua has a selection of fine outdoor restaurants.


Chef told me what it was called but I forgot. Pan algo.


Just chillin'.