Salinas

(DAY235 : Banos - Salinas : 300 miles)


After riding the road to Riobamba for the last time, we continued towards Guayaguil. I was certain that the road would remain equally smooth, and was terribly mistaken. Eighty miles of curves made solely of potholes is what you have to cross first on the way to Ecuador's biggest city. After that, you have a road to roll on.


The bridge to Guayaguil.

I spent an hour and a half riding around in Guayaguil, trying to find something worth seeing. All I found was chaos and traffic, and only leaving the place felt pleasant.

The road from the big bad city to Salinas was a pedal to the metal affair, and got us there in just an hour. When we pulled up to enjoy the view of the beach, it was seven o'clock; a total of eight hours after leaving Banos.



On the beach side and after dusk, Salinas almost looks like a high end summer destination. The illusion doesn't last for more than a block inward, but the hotels do seem to believe that they are located in Acapulco. After quite a few ridiculous quotes for dump category rooms, Hotel Marvento (Calle Guayas y Quil., Avenida Gral Enriquez Gallo , Tel: 593 42770975, info@hotelmarvento.com) seemed like a bargain. I checked in to a very decent room for $20 including breakfast. It's a fairly new building with parking and also provides internet access.

No later than a quick shower, I was having a stroll on the beach with a surprising amount of happiness. How I had missed being on the coast! The gentle sea breeze smelled beautiful, and the temperature was perfect. The reflections on the calm water were accompanied by the muted splashes of tiny waves. More importantly, I was intensely aware of them all. I wouldn't be, if I hadn't been away so long.

Then I smelled something else... Street vendors! Time for a chela and roadside barbeque :)

Waking up to yet another cloudy morning, I decided to hit the road and postpone whale watching to Puerto Lopez. Following the coast up north should have been a rather simple task, but following the Ecuadorian signs to Ruta del Sol (Route of the Sun) somehow took me to a private parking lot. Shocker.

As I was maneuvering to exit the gravel lot, I met a young woman and her father, who turned out to be the owner of the property. Following our brief chat, I found myself accepting their kind invitation for a drink although I had left Salinas barely ten minutes ago. What I had assumed to be a fancy beach side restaurant was also a guest house with a twist. In fact, it was the prettiest place I had seen in Ecuador. If you are travelling as a couple, you should check out the rooms on the light tower, or at least try the ceviche while enjoying the panoramic view from the terrace.



Hosteria Farallon Dion. (Peninsula de Sta. Elena, Lomas de Ballenita , Tel: 098241768 , www.farallondion.com)