Tamarindo

(DAY070 : San Juan del Sur - Tamarindo : 150 miles)
(DAY071 : Tamarindo)


Costa Rica border was quick and easy to reach, but almost inpenetratable. As I approached the border, a gang of "helpers" started running towards me. I'm not sure what the etiquette is. Perhaps the first one to touch the vehicle is entitled to the prey. Yet I'm not sure how that's a good strategy because when I whizzed by they had to run all the way back to the official excuse for a dollar shack. When they caught up I had already paid my whatever tax, but that was only the beginning.

This border is a zoo, and exiting Nicaragua alone took me an hour. The kids actually helped me quite a bit while asking whether if they could help. The youngest one just wouldn't give up and kept advising me throughout the process anyway. A helper is not necessary, but when you're told to see the Police next, you don't automatically think that you're supposed track down this particular officer and have him sign something. But I had this little kid next to me, and he took me straight to this baseball capped dude who turned out to be the "Police". He sure deserved his tip.

Then, it was time to enter Costa Rica. Even remembering tires me, so I'll just say it was at least another hour, and a more ridiculous one at that. Want a tip? Avoid border crossings on Highway 1.


The only good thing about the Costa Rica border was the drive-thru bar right after it.

Costa Rica seems to be where Central America ends. Money's here for sure, but it doesn't seem to be used on building roads. Once I took a turn towards the coast in Liberia, crap was called road again. After a brief stop in Coco beach and Ocotal, I headed to Tamarindo which I had read to be a wonderful beach town. For its clientele it must be, but I strongly disliked the place from the get go. Take the worst of USA and Central America, and place them on a nice Pacific beach. Pretentious, expensive, and devoid of any character. Get a road before charging $3 for cold coffee!






Something special. I know exactly how YPVS sounds when you turn on the ignition but can only imagine how this puppy screams once you kick the starter. Only 200cc but anything less than 45hp and I'd be disappointed. Don't tell Kat I'm drooling.

My room at Cabinas Marielos was decent and close to everything, and cost $30 a night. There seems to be quite a bit to do around Tamagringo, but I didn't explore out. This is a great location for surfing, so right before I left, I took a 2 hour surf lesson but most of it was spent waiting for waves. (I'd rather be unlucky with waves) It's a whole lot of work for a few seconds of fun, but I have a feeling it's totally worth it once you get the hang of it. Maybe if I attach a sail on this thing...

San Juan del Sur

(DAY069 : Isla de Ometepe - San Juan del Sur : 1 hour ferry ride and 25 miles)


Dirt and dust was the main theme of the day again. I hate the smell and taste of this stuff. We're swallowed by a cloud every time a car goes by in the opposite direction. I make bad calls when stuck behind someone.

San Juan del Sur is a dusty touristy beach town. The Royal Chateau (wow!) Hotel costs $30 a night and sounds like a bargain after checking with that place on the beach. Parking, internet, and breakfast included. Who needs hot water when it's this hot.

Iguana is the place to be at night I'm told. But I was too tired to verify, so it's on you.





I left San Juan yabadabadoo without even having a dip. After all, a much nicer beach called Tamarindo is awaiting. (Really now?)

Isla de Ometepe

(DAY068 : Laguna de Apoyo - Isla de Ometepe : 80 miles and a 1 hour ferry ride)


When I arrived San Jorge, I still had plenty of time for the ferry at 2:30 pm. The trip cost less than $10 one way, and took about an hour on the brown, choppy waters of the largest lake in central America.




Had I not tied her good, I'm sure Katirga would have ended up on top of the Cavalier parked next to it.


Top deck always has the best views.

Isla de Ometepe is a couple of volcanic mountains jointly sticking out of Lago de Nicaragua. The ferry docks at Moyogalpa, on the western skirts of the larger Volcan, Conception. Volcan Maderas is at south east of Conception, and both mountains are circled by roads (or tracks) linked to each other over Santo Domingo.



Once Lago de Nicaragua and its freshwater bull sharks were safely left behind, I headed south, running counter clockwise on the main loop around Volcan Conception. The road was great and I was at Laguna Charco Verde in no time. I went to see the beach, took a picture, and got back on the road. As I veered off the loop the road became dirt, and I only made it to Santo Domingo by sunset. Beautiful views, cheap accommodation for $15, a new friend from Berlin to share the full moon by the lake, and a surprise eclipse, nicely summarizes the rest.


Laguna Charco Verde








Ometepe version of a pidgeon. (Urracas) Yep, things really are beautiful around here.

I woke up in a strange mood with a strange question: why did I come here?
To hike in nature? To climb a mountain? To see petroglyphs? To ride in dirt? It's a beautiful place, and all should've been appealing options. Could've been and would've been too. Shoulda coulda woulda... Let's move Kat!

At the main road, I thought it would be a good idea to take the north half of the loop rather than tracking back. Perhaps feeling guilty for not exploring enough. Bad call. When I reached the dock late only to watch the 10:30 ferry leave, I was beat, frustrated, and as dirty as Katirga. That, was not a road.

Laguna de Apoyo

(DAY067 : Granada - Laguna de Apoyo : 15 miles)


On his road report Henry had told me about Ann and this great place by Laguna de Apoyo. Then in Granada, the bartender at Rolling Rock, handed me Ann's card and said I really should check out her place. So I went and found a hottie named Ann who runs a bit of paradise called Crater's Edge. A room with private bathroom is $32, use of Kayaks and internet is free. It was a very tranquil, eventless night until I fell off the hammock. (Flor de Cana is not a good substitute for chela Irvin, it knocks me down.)

I half heartedly left the next morning. I wish to return another day.




Before I headed to the ferry from San Jorge, I stopped by Catarina to see the view from Mirador (lookout). It was well worth the short trip.




Then, I somehow got lost on terrible roads and breathed in a lot of dust.

Granada

(DAY065 : Tegucigalpa - Granada : 250 miles)
(DAY066 : Granada)


The border crossing to Nicaragua was tidier. As soon as I arrived, a guy with a badge and official-like attitude (whatever that means) started guiding me through the windows. They surely can't have an official for guiding each arrival, so I was curious to see how this would pan out. When all was done, he handed me a printed piece of paper indicating an $18 due fee at the bottom. It's the mandatory traffic insurance Nicaragua requires. I paid with USD and he gave me the change in Cordobas, but did try to cheat me for about $2. When he saw I was about to object, he handed me another 20 Cordobas, still leaving me a dollar short. That's ok, I counted it towards the tip I would have given him and moved on. In total the border cost me less than an hour and a bit over $20.


Indication of approaching a border

Nicaragua's roads are a significant improvement. Surface, markings... Heck, there are even signs.

I needed gas, and hence local money, so I started looking for an atm at the first town I came across. There were 3 machines, yet only one of them accepted MasterCard, and that of course was out of service. The branches were not open either as it was weekend. Then, as I was yapping about my problem to a local, he asked why I didn't buy my gas with card. I went quiet and wondered since when might that have been possible again.

A while after I enter Granada, a guy on a bicycle promises to take me to a cheap yet very nice place. Already having toured the town twice on my own with not much luck, I accept. It's cheap all right, but I really don't want to do that cheap tonight. He takes me to a bunch of other places, gradually more expensive, and all the way up to $55 a night, but today I'm picky. I tip him and carry on by myself again, heading to the most expensive looking hotel in town, right across from the central park. At $87, it's not gonna happen, so I move on to the second most expensive looking, right next door. Hotel Alhambra has exactly what I'm looking for (minus parking) for $50. A clean, roomy room with a real window (not facing some corridor), AC, hot water, and WiFi (that later proved useless). They also promise that it's safe to park in front of the hotel.

For good live music, or if all town looks dead at night, go to Cafe Nuit, two and a half blocks north of Hotel Alhambra. There, you've got the most essential fact about Granada.








First time Katirga spends a night on the street.

Tegucigalpa

(DAY064 : Copan - Tegucigalpa : 260 miles)

I left Copan at 8:45 and enjoyed the twisty ride with beautiful views. The narrow road was fairly good, but occasionally parts of it went missing. When it connected to the main road, I headed up north towards San Pedro Sula as it appeared to be the shorter and better paved loop on my map. In about two hours, I would be heading back down south, on even better tarmac.

Honduras is a land of cowboys and vibrant green fields. Unstructured, messy, and polluted, but also friendly and spectacular.

I arrived Tegus wet in my rain gear at around 3 pm, and dove right in. Chain restaurants and stores all over the place of course, but not much to talk about. Still, this was the only place that made sense to stay at, as there isn't much else towards the Nicaragua border. It was getting late, and the rain could start again at any time, but finding a decent hotel at an attractive price wasn't proving easy. When I found a very nice place for $50, I thought I should take it even if it's a bit pricey. Then, left anyway. Where to?.. Moron.

About 30 minutes after leaving Tegus it was already quite dark, and what appeared as a town or village on the map was only a bunch of shabby houses. Like I didn't know. Then, it started raining again. Moron.

Around here things first become road kill, then food for vultures which too become road kill. I turned around and started running away from the rain. It was getting darker by the minute. I pulled over by a busy soccer field and asked about a hotel. Not around here they said, in Tegus... Moron.

But wait, there is one, said a good looking woman. (Honduras has the best looking latinas so far btw.) Right over there, you'll see a church and a school, ask there. Thanks babe. Vamos Katir'cim. Rapatapatapa!....

So we pull in to this strange monastery like place. It's the hotel. Then walk by a bunch of Americans with a southern accent, all in identical shirts. Aren't they too old to be a soccer team? "No, we're missionaries!" said one of them. Where the heck am I y'all? But rain's about to catch up so I better worry about it out later.

Guess what? They're full. Literally in the middle of the nowhere of Honduras, there's a big, big hotel and they're out of rooms. The nice lady at the reception is checking to see if they'll authorize me to camp on their property. The rain is here, and it's now black outside. You beat me to saying it.

Guess what? Someone cancels their reservation! I have a monastery room for $38. Total in savings: $12. There are things money can't buy. Like a brain.

I still am not sure what the place exactly is. Clearly it's a fine establishment by God (Inc.), and it sure saved my hide, thank God. And the nice receptionist lady.

Oh, but I know what the town is called: San Antonio de Oriente.

[ Mayan sites ]

PALENQUE vs. TIKAL vs. COPAN

Before the trip, when I was trying to decide which Mayan site I should include in the route, I dug quite a bit in forums and touristic guides only to get even more confused. Now that I've ended up visiting all three, Palenque, Tikal, and Copan, I understand why it's so hard to recommend one over another.

Palenque is not only a spectacular site for Mayan architecture, but also a great time if you stay at El Panchan. You stay in the jungle, party with live music, and wake up to crazy bird songs and howls of the resident howler monkey. If you're worried about bugs, pests, or valuable property, stay at a room with private bathroom and hot water at Margarita & Eds. If you prefer to take it all in, sleep outside on a hammock. Malaria is not a problem here.

Tikal is the place to be if you choose the keyword "breath taking". This site is much larger than the others, and it's "presentation" makes all the difference. Unlike others, Tikal does not just stand out in the open, but is burried deep in the jungle waiting for YOU to discover it. The visit is an adventure, especially if you first see it in a sunrise tour. Your stay however, is likely to be a bore.

Copan is famous for the extremely well preserved sculptures and carvings, displayed both on-site and in the museum. The site is unique also because it provides access to some of its archaeological tunnels, which reveal parts of a preexisting temple beneath a visible, more recent pyramid. A full scale replica of the underlying Rosalila temple is at the heart of the museum. If you have a scholarly interest in Mayan cultures, Copan might be your first choice, as other sites have long been stripped off of their "valuables". The nature is not half as rich as the other sites and the "nature trail" is nothing but a walk in the woods. As for your stay, Copan Ruinas is a cute little town with plenty of options for accommodation, food, and drinks.

Copan

(DAY062 : Rio Dulce - Copan : 185 miles)
(DAY063 : Copan)

After more back tracking south towards Guatemala City, I took a turn at Rio Hondo towards the small Honduras border at El Florido. The border is a few shacks and a rope closing the road, and I'm greeted by a few guys, offering assistance and/or money exchange. There really is no need for any assistance, so we only get to chat a bit while I exit myself and Katirga from Guatemala, then enter Honduras on paper. These guys know about Galatasaray and Turkish soccer players more than I do! But then, that's not saying much as I know nothing about sports that involve chasing a ball.

After spending my last 10 Quetzales for immigration paperwork, I also exchanged the 400 Mexican Pesos that I've been begging Guatemalan banks to exchange. The guy's best offer was 560 Lempiras, while an internet exchange price would have been 680. A $6 commission on a $36 transaction may be steep, but if Bank of America had this kind of opportunity I know they would've taken all $36 and charged me another $5 for talking to their teller, so we had a deal.

Past the rope is Honduras customs, which doesn't even bother checking Katirga's VIN#, but requires 2 photocopies of something and something. So where do I get copies? In Guatemala! I ride back to the other side of the rope and get my copies, but now I don't have any Quetzales. So I pay with Lempiras, and end up with Quetzales for change. Just when I had gotten it all perfect!

In short, the border crossing was painless and relatively quick in under an hour, and cost me about $30 or so, most of it Katirga's temporary importation tax.


Aduane Honduras

Then, after only 7 miles of curvy smooth asphalt, I was in Copan Ruinas, a very cute small town. It was already 3pm, and the park closes at 4, so I check into San Jose hotel 1 block north of the central park. A basic but clean room with secure parking for $15.

Below: Copan Ruinas






The next morning I visited the ruins, tunnels, and the museum. The cost of all fees was $37.


The logo of the ancient city of Copan. (No giggling please)


Intact only in Copan.


The entrance to archaeological tunnels.


the buried Rosalila temple as seen from the tunnels


Full scale replica of the Rosalila temple

I spent the evening at Red Frog with John and Stina. John had pulled in with his R1150GS in the morning and met Stina here, so we are new friends with lots to chat about. The local beers in Honduras are a disappointment and Red Frog's nachos was the absolute worst I ever had, yet it was another great night.

Also see : Palenque vs. Tikal vs. Copan

Tikal

(DAY060 : Rio Dulce - Tikal : 157 miles)
(DAY061 : Tikal - Rio Dulce)

After a nice breakfast at Bruno's, I left Rio Dulce at 9:15. The views, the bends, the surface, all made for a great ride, and I was in Tikal before 1 pm. You are not required to purchase your $20 park entrance ticket at the main gate, and if you buy it after 3 pm, it's valid for the next day as well. I reserved a guided sunrise tour at the gate for $13, but that too can be arranged inside, or you can even just show up at the info booth at 4:45 am and join one then.

The 2 hotels in the park were both full (and expensive anyway), but you can rent a tent or camp with your own at the Jaguar inn for only $3. That's safer and cheaper than camping at the main camp area. Internet, on the other hand, costs $5 per hour and that's about 8 times more expensive than normal around here.

I visited the ruins in the evening, and once again the next morning with the tour. The sunrise tour is a hit and miss, as the thick morning fog does not always part to offer you the magical views the tour is famous for, but I was among the lucky. In any case though, it's a great experience to visit the jungle in pitch black, discover a mystical Mayan high-rise in the mist, and hear howler monkeys' terrifying (if you didn't know what they were) morning growl.


The theater (Temple IV)


The show (Temple V in the distance)


The temple of the Jaguar


Tikal is a personal discovery


And you better be in shape

Following the morning visit, I broke camp and rode to Flores for breakfast. Flores is a tiny lake island connected to the mainland with a short bit of road, and in my opinion just a glorified bus stop. I was really glad I didn't choose to stay there and commute to Tikal as some guide books suggest.


El Muelle hotel is by the lake and very close to Tikal. Nope, didn't stay there.

Until this morning, I still didn't know whether if I would continue to Belize or not. Belize has some of the greatest diving, and culturally is quite different than what I've seen so far. San Ignacio, very close to the border, is supposed to have some really interesting sights as well. I'm not sure whether if I still have a chance to reach Ushiaia before southern winter. But if I visit Belize, and get into scuba diving and all, I know that it's game over. I know, it doesn't matter, and the point is to explore and go with the flow, but... The decision is to dive Belize another time.



The road between Rio Dulce and Tikal is a trip in greens.

After breakfast, I tracked back to Rio Dulce and this time checked into Bruno's for $25. I had warm water, and a balcony with a hammock overlooking the rio. It's a bit closer to Sundog too :)

Also see : Palenque vs. Tikal vs. Copan

Livingston

(DAY059 : Livingston)


The rain was still going in the morning, so I placed the camera inside my bag-type underwater housing and left the gear bag behind. We met up with Radu (The Romanian guy from NY) and made it to the lancha dock under the bridge.



The round trip speed boat tours to Livingston cost $20, start at 9:30 (not 9) every morning, and take about 5 hours with a few stops along the way and 2 hours in town. They are well worth the money and time, especially if you haven't left your telephoto lens behind. The rain did stop by 9:30, and I was stuck with the 17-40 and the baby Leica. Can't always win.









Below: Livingston







Back by 3 something pm, in my tent by 4, I continued my sleep from where I'd left it in the morning. In the evening, well, you know I'm a habitual creature... Tomorrow, it'll be Tikal.

Rio Dulce

(DAY058 : Antigua - Rio Dulce : 215 miles)

The excellent stretch of curvy road to the capital painfully went to waste, slooowly following two elderly riders from Antigua. Based on what I've read and heard, Guatemala City is this evil place that you can not possibly survive (bullocks of course), so they would guide me for quick and safe passage. Ultimately they pointed to a huge "periferico" sign at the city entrance, and waved goodbye. I took the exit, and got lost.


Probably not the best view in Guatemala City.

The hard part is not getting on the darn periferico, it's staying on it and heading in the right direction. A map is useless if you (or anyone for that matter) can't figure out where you are, and asking for directions might be helpful only if you understand Spanish very well, and if the answer is at all relevant. As for signage... What signage? I know I'm supposed to avoid zones 1 thru 5, but I have no clue about where they are! For all I knew,I was in deep (city). Then, a stressful hour later, I was out and my heart rate was back to normal.

The initially ugly road eventually got beautiful, and the blue sky turned dark and threatening. I was chased by the rain clouds all the way north, right into Rio Dulce. After checking into a hotel-ish place for about $10, I set up my tent on the bed and showered first with cold water, then with DEET spray. Welcome to malaria risk zone.

Below: El Relleno, aka Rio Dulce





Bruno's


Main street


Defcon 4 at quarters.

When I went out for my fix of Gallo and possibly a bite on the side, I was pretty sure that it would be a very local affair. As almost always on this trip, I was wrong. The well hidden Sundog Cafe wasn't hidden well enough, and as I passed through its walkway, Guatemala stayed behind. My beer got served, and my clouds let it loose in a downpour.

So what do you call a Turk, a Gringa, two Australians, two Maltecos, a Frenchman, a Romanian, and a German, getting drunk under the makeshift roof of a bar run by a Hollandaise couple? (A very good time)


Sundog Cafe

Had rain taken a break we could have stopped drinking and gone to bed at a reasonable time you know. Thankfully Julian eventually closed the bar and we spread out like wet rats. But this rat would get much wetter than others as the gates to the hotel-ish place were long locked, and no one was around to hear him knocking.

I did eventually make it to my hole to pass out in my tent, but getting up at 8 wasn't easy. Gotta catch the 9am lancha to Livingston.