LOS ANGELES to BUENOS AIRES : expedition journals : <img src="http://www.la2ba.com/interface/flag-argentina.gif"> El Calafate

Puerto Natales - El Calafate: 175 miles

We set out together again heading north on carretera 9, and pretty soon came to the crossroads. Up ahead lay the spectacular Torres del Paine National Park, and to our east was the Argentina border and Ruta 40 leading to El Calafate and the equally spectacular Perito Moreno Glacier. This is where you do not make a choice, and take both in turns.

Cecilia did the right thing and continued into the park as planned, although the weather was absolute crap. I hoped it would clear even if only to give her a glimpse of the legendary views. But I couldn't be hopeful enough for myself to continue with her on that muddy dirt under the rain and dark skies. I really had had it with the cold, and the wind, and the gloom, and the rain. I just had to run, until I could drag that sun out of wherever it had been hiding for so long.

The tiny border was a zoo on the Argentine side, but when I finally got rolling, I did it! I dragged her out from behind those clouds, and it was daytime again! I hoped this was how it looked over TP as well, and got a bit curious, maybe a bit jealous, then just happy to be having this beautiful ride.

The cute town of El Calafate may be touristy, but it also was sunny and that to me meant the whole world. A few rounds on the main strip, bikes sniffing out bikes, and soon we were a gang again. When I arrived, Andrea and Saskia had finished setting up camp, and Leo was already at the internet cafe chatting with that Colombian chick. Soon after, Simon (a new Simon we'd met in Ushuaia), Miriam, and Daniele also dropped in. Rather than getting settled, the five of us decided to ride out to the glacier after hours and enjoy a free visit.

Heading west towards the glacier brought back the cold rain and the gloom, but I was recharged. The road got better and better for curves and views as we approached, and then, there it was. The most incredible sight I may have ever seen. Who cares if it's pissing down!?

On the way back we stopped by a lodge, perhaps the only one, to see how much a modest place in the sticks might cost. Leo came back out with the funniest expression on his face. Apparently the conversation went as something like this…

Leo - (Dadadadadada…..) How much?
Receptionist - (Outrageous amount)
Leo in utter disbelief - PESOS CHILENOS???

Clearly they weren't looking for drenched penniless biker types dripping on their carpet. While the guys were still trying to decide whether if they could camp hidden within the park limits, it was getting dark. I left them to it, hit the gas, and ended up killing two rabbits within 45 seconds, after managing to not hurt any animals throughout the trip :(

Ultimately we all ended up camping together in town, and later got a chance to enjoy the glacier in really nice weather as well. I'd never believe it had someone told me that I could spend over 3 hours watching a large chunk of ice, and even then leaving only because I was escorted out by security. (The off-limits area provided a wonderfully tranquil setting, even after the arrival of the tourist busses ;)

Below: The Perito Moreno Glacier